Getting Started with Jacket with Back Tie

Here’s the line drawing and pattern-cutting layout for Jacket with Back Tie from Happy Homemade Sew Chic:IMG_20150601_200618620

The pattern calls for linen or hemp. Ain’t doing hemp again, don’t care if that costs me a ticket to my Eternal Reward for membership in the Hippie Doomsday Cult. And my linen was ruined by fading in the sun. So I will need to find something else to make this out of.

Let’s peruse the pattern in the meantime. Note that the cutting layout has you swap the direction of the dress for the front and back to save space. It also has the belt going with the grain, even though the belt will lie across the grain when you’re wearing it. That’s OK if you have a solid or a print that can handle this treatment. If you’re working with a border or one-way print, beware. Also, the lapel will show the wrong side of the fabric, so you need to find something that will look good on both sides.

As usual, the pattern calls for a skimpy 3/4 inch (2 cm) facing. I’m making mine a full inch (2.5 cm).

Also, note how the cutting layout calls for four different seam allowances – the standard 3/8 inch (1 cm) for most of the garment, but a skinny 1/4 inch (0.5 cm) for the neckline, a standard 1.5 inch (4 cm) for the hem and 3/4 inch (2 cm) for the front of the jacket. The design calls for a neckline facing and then a turned-over hem. Those need to be the same size or the lapels will look weird. Here’s my tracing on to Sample Dot patternmaker’s paper:

IMG_20150602_133529041

OK, so this is a fussy little jacket. Still cute, right?

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